Sunday, July 7, 2019

Fuji Five Lakes Part 3

Our last full day in the Fuji Five Lakes area was spent taking it easy and seeing Danna off. We had plans in the morning to go to a Sake Brewery for a tasting and tour and attempted to go to breakfast at a restaurant recommended by the hostel before hand. For whatever reason, the restaurant was closed, so we went next door the Seven Eleven and grabbed something there.

From here we made our way to Ide Sake Brewery. We were the only ones in the tour and we learned everything from a brief history of Sake to how this particular brewery makes theirs. Making Sake is a long process and was started hundreds of years ago. It was first made in the temples by physically chewing the rice for 5-10 minutes or until they began to taste a sweetness from the rice. From here they spit it out into a bowl to begin the brewing process. Thankfully with today’s technology, the chewing and spitting is no longer necessary.

Today, they clean the rice in big batches with water from Fuji. The groundwater takes 80 years to filter down the mountain to the source they use. According to our guide, having good water is essential to the process. It is more important that the type of rice they use. After the rice is washed, it is steamed for a short period of time. The rice is then designated for a couple of different places. It is either mixed with Koji for one part of the fermentation process, mixed with yeast and water for the other part of fermentation, or used as mash in the Sake mixture.

The Koji rice is mixed for almost 48 hours straight before it is ready to be used. It is turned and mixed by hand every two hours. The yeast rice mix sits for two weeks before it is ready to be used. They are both used in a parallel fermentation mix, which makes it different from beer, wine, and whiskey. It sits in big tanks to ferment before being pressed and pasteurized. The rice that is left over is sold for cooking purposes. The Sake is moved into big steel containers in an air-conditioned controlled room. It’s kept at 10 degrees Celsius. The entire Sake making process takes place from November to March when it is cold. The pasteurization process can last up to two years. Other than the area where it is pasteurized, they do not control the temperature of the room. Because of this, they have different tricks they use to make sure the temperature stays at about 10 Celsius.

We were also given a tour of the grounds of the brewery owner’s home. The Ide Sake Brewery has been in the same family for over 100 years. The home the family lives in has been around since the late 1800s. We were not allowed to go into the home, but some sliding doors were opened so we could look inside. There were painted partition doors that were pointed out to us because they are over 200 years old. They came from the previous home that was built in the same location. The last spot we saw was the Zen Garden. It was a beautiful space with trees as old as the house. There was even a private shrine because the home was so old. Not many newer homes will have this. It was an amazing, relaxing space!
Cedar Ball

On our way back to the tasting room, our guide pointed out a hanging Cedar ball. The owner of the brewery makes it when the newest batch of Sake is finished. It starts out green. When we saw it, it was brown. When it turns red, the Sake that is pasteurizing is ready for bottling and distribution.

Sake classification
From here, we went into the tasting room and sampled two types of Sake and the Plum Wine. First we tried Ginjo Sake. I don’t recall what this means, but I thought it was pretty good. The second Sake was a Junmai and tasted drier than the first. This was Scott’s preference. I was surprised by how much better I liked the Sake than wine tastings that I’ve done previously. The last thing we tried was the Plum Wine. I was a bit nervous about this one because I was told that it could be sweet and sour. I abhor sour things, but the wine was actually pleasant and my favorite of the three we tried. I really enjoyed our Sake tour. Our guide was knowledgeable and friendly, which made our experience great.

After the tour, we parted ways with Danna and reserved our bus tickets back to Tokyo for the fourth. We probably could have headed back with Danna at this point in our trip, but I had wanted to give us plenty of time at Fuji in case we needed it because of the weather. The rest of our day was fairly relaxing and uneventful. We walked to a noodle spot recommended by our hostel for having good ‘Fuji’ style noodles. It was a tiny local little shop. All three of us decided to go the vegetarian option with our noodles, as the meat option was horse. The noodles were even thicker than Udon noodles, which I didn’t think was possible. They were delicious but really filling.

After lunch, we made our way back to our hostel to hang out and rest for a bit before making our way to Chureito Pagoda in hopes of seeing Fuji. We took a short train ride to the location with the Pagoda and followed the signs to the base of the hill. It advertised having 398 stairs to climb to the Pagoda. By about stair number 100, I was definitely feeling my legs. Surprisingly, I wasn’t very sore at all from hiking Mt. Fuji the previous day. However, these stairs reminded me that I had indeed done some intense hiking the previous day!
 
Unfortunately for us, this was the one-day where the clouds did not part in the late afternoon for viewing Fuji. There was a viewing platform behind the Pagoda that offered a beautiful view of the Pagoda with Mt. Fuji looming in the distance. We rested and waited on a bench in front of the Pagoda for a good amount of time, but we could see that the clouds were not going to be parting anytime soon. I wasn’t too disappointed at not getting to see Mt. Fuji because in my opinion, I’d already experienced the best of what Mt. Fuji has to offer.

We made our way back to our town and decided to stop at a Thai restaurant for dinner. All of us had had our fill of noodles by this point in the trip. The food was delicious! We made our way back to our hostel for the evening where we hung our in the common area before turning in. Scott took the futon mattress that Danna had slept on and made himself a double bed. According to him, he slept so much better than the first night! Danna did tell us that it was a hard mattress and weird pillow culture here. So far, I don’t disagree with her. Some of the pillows have a side that is filled with some type of rice or barley. I really don’t know how the Japanese find a comfortable position when sleeping on these beds. But maybe, they think that Americans are weird for sleeping on such soft mattresses and pillows without a hard si

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