On July 4th we
made our way from the Fuji Five Lakes area back to Tokyo. In all, it was a
rather uneventful day. Our bus was scheduled to leave at 12:30, but we were
told to show up at 10:00 to see if there was room on that bus since that is
when we wanted to leave originally. We woke up to some heavy rain. We scrounged
around what we had and made a makeshift breakfast for ourselves since none of
us wanted to venture outside. We booked a taxi and entertained ourselves in the
hostel common rooms.
I think I can speak for all
of us in saying that we were shocked by the bus system out of Kawaguchiko
Station. Between the rain and random people buying a ticket as they got on, it
was completely anarchy in comparison to what we’ve experienced on the train and
subway system. We were told the previous day that we couldn’t book tickets for
the 10am bus because there were only two seats left. We realized that this
obviously was untrue when we were waiting to board the bus, and a large number
of people were buying their tickets at that time from the driver. I tried to
ask the English-speaking woman facilitating the line if we could get on before
the people without their tickets since we already had ours. This was completely
lost in translation because she kept telling me that there was already a line
to get on the bus. I tried asking a different way but still got the same
response. So, we waited in line and were able to get seats. None of us
understood how they could tell us the previous day that there were not enough
seats available when they clearly had not sold enough tickets to book the bus.
In the end, it doesn’t matter because we were able to take the bus we wanted
with only the one minor hiccup.
We arrived at the bus stop
for Shinagawa Station, the station we had been to with Danna. We were able to
find our way back to the main JR terminal with relative ease. A quick stop in a
tourist information center reminded us the train line to take to drop us right
by our hotel. We were about an hour early for check in, so we dropped our bags
and went in search of the conveyor belt sushi spot that Danna had recommended.
This place was apparently the one to invent the conveyor sushi idea. We had
touch screens in front of us that allowed us to select the items that we wanted
and they were sent out on the conveyor belt. There was also a secondary
conveyor system that reminded me of the luggage conveyor belts at an airport.
This also had the different sushi items on it covered by a plastic dish. We
were informed that you did not touch the plastic, but grabbed the plate in the
small opening and used it to open the plastic covering. None of us were brave
enough to pull anything off of this conveyor system and instead, used the touch
screen to order. I would have to say this was one of my least favorite places
that we’ve eaten as I don’t like sushi, and the rest of the non-sushi menu was
rather bland. Scott and Lynsey seemed to really enjoy their experience and
food. Scott was fascinated by the conveyor belt system and said it might be the
highlight of the trip for him. It was an interesting experience and unlike
anything else I’ve ever experienced!
After lunch we were able to
check in. Danna had given us permission to use her apartment to do some
laundry. So, we headed there and followed her picture instructions to figure
out the washer. She doesn’t have a dryer, but the bathroom has a heating system
in it. Once we finished both loads of clothes, we set the dryer system for four
hours and left.
Despite not doing anything
all afternoon, we were still hungry and decided to try a Japanese barbeque
place near our hotel for dinner. I didn’t know what to expect going in, but it
was not to have a tiny little grill at our table where we grilled our own meat!
We ordered a vegetable salad, large rice, bacon, boneless short ribs, and
boneless chuck roast. We were brought a wedge of cabbage and barbeque sauce as
a complimentary appetizer. Next, they brought out the two beef dishes we
ordered. Scott grilled up the first batch and the waiter showed us that we were
supposed to add soy sauce to our little dish for the meat after it was
finished. Everything was thinly sliced and tasted divine! We took turns
grilling the meat. When the bacon arrived, I was surprised at the thick chunks
we were given. I was thinking of American style thin sliced bacon when we
ordered. The bacon was by far my least favorite and everyone else’s part of the
meal. It was extremely salty and did not have the same level of flavor that the
beef offered. I also loved the vegetable salad that we ordered. Normally, I
hate salad, but this had some type of toasted sesame seed oil on it. In my
opinion, it rivaled for first place with the beef.
After dinner, we turned in
early because we were getting up fairly early to make our way to Nikko for more
temples. We arrived in Nikko to discover that the temperature was quite cool in
comparison to the other cities and places we had visited. We bought a bus pass
and headed for Rinnoji Temple where extravagance awaited us. Rinnoji is a
unique complex. It was founded in 766 CE (still not sure what the CE stands
for) and over the centuries combined the religions of Buddhism and Shinto. It
was known as Nikkosan. When the Shogunate (Samurai Government) ended in 1867,
the new government decided to create a clear distinction between the two
religions. Because Nikkosan had spent almost 1,000 years combining the two
religions, they could not simply choose to be one religion or the other. So,
the complex split into one temple and two shrines, which are still around today.
Shintoism believes that
natural spirits are manifested in the environment. The three mountains, Mt.
Nyoho, Mt. Nantai, and Mt. Taro, are worshiped as deities. Rinnoji Temple
houses three Buddhas that are believed to be incarnations of these three surrounding
mountains. The temple itself is a beautiful building and the Buddha statues are
awe-inspiring. We could not take photos inside the temple.
We passed a couple of other
buildings on our way to Nikko Toshogu Shrine. The first was Gomado, Hall for the
Fire Ritual. At temples and shrines here, you will see all kinds of paper and
small wooden boards where people have written their prayers and wishes. These
are burned in order to transmit the prayers to the Buddhist deities. We also
passed Gojunoto, a Five-Storied Pagoda. I learned that the center poles inside
of pagodas suspended from the fourth floor and stop before the foundation. This
acts as a counterweight during earthquakes.
After the Pagoda is the
first gate into the Toshogu Shrine where Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu is buried. It is
an enormous complex and was crawling with students while we were there. We got
stopped for many short interviews while the students practiced their English
and asked us for our name, country, favorite Japanese food, and signature.
One of my favorite buildings
within the complex was the Shinkyu, or Sacred Stable. It was mostly
undecorated, but it contained eight panels of monkeys that teach how to lead an
ideal life. The second one was ‘See no evil, speak no evil, and hear no evil.’
As I stated earlier, there
were many gates in this complex and the second one we came across was Yomeimon
Gate. It is an extravagant work of art with 508 carvings. It contains mythical
creatures such as dragons and flying horses on the upper level and people on
the lower level. Because it would invite bad luck if the gate were complete,
one of the pillars on the backside was purposefully put in upside down, so it
would be seen as incomplete.
The third gate contains a
carving of a sleeping cat called Nemurineko. The cat protects the entrance to
Tokugawa Ieyasu’s grave. This gate led to a series of steep stairs up the
mountain to the gravesite. Each stone stair is carved from a single piece of
rock. At the top of the stairs there was a torii made of stone. There is one
final gate at the entrance to the grave called Inukimon Gate. It is made of
bronze and was cast in 1650. Visitors are not allowed to go through this gate
and are kept out of the gravesite with a stone fence. The grandeur of the shrine
is truly a sight to behold.
After visiting the Shrine,
we headed for lunch and stopped at the Shinkyo Bridge. It was a picturesque
spot, but we did not spend a lot of time here. We made our way to Nikkozan
Rinno-ji Temple Taiyu-in where Iemitsu, the third Tokugawa Shogun ruler and
grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s grandson is buried. It was mentioned repeatedly
that Iemitsu did not want to upstage his grandfather in his burial site, so
everything is more muted and understated in his mausoleum. With this being
said, it is still a grand and spectacular series of buildings.
Just like his grandfather’s
shrine, there are three huge gates that lead to Iemitsu’s burial site. We
didn’t spend a lot of time gawking at everything here because we were trying to
stay ahead of a large group of students. I’m not sure if the complex had
cleared out because of lunch and the misty rain that started, or if it is not
as busy as Toshogu Shrine, but when we arrived it seemed as if we had the place
to ourselves. It was a rather enjoyable experience. All we could see at the
final resting place of Iemitsu was Kokamon Gate.
We searched for an
interesting cloth to add to our collection on our way back to the train station
but unfortunately did not find any. On our long train ride back to Tokyo, Scott
took care of us by figuring out how we could take the Shinkansen to Sapporo for
the last leg of Lynsey’s and my journey I was quite shocked to learn that we
would spend the majority of the day on two different Shinkansen lines. Scott
asked, “Didn’t you do any research on this?” To which I responded with a simple
‘Nope’. When Lynsey asked if I wanted to go up to Sapporo, I was all about it,
but didn’t look into how long it would take. I just assumed it would be similar
to getting to Hiroshima. It’s a bit more work and slightly longer, but we are
on our way. We said goodbye to Scott this morning and left him to entertain
himself before he has to leave for the airport. I know he has plans to go back
to the conveyor belt sushi place. I wish he could come on the last leg of the
journey with us, but since he cannot, I hope he as boring and uneventful
flights back!